Although I have been traveling to far
away places since I was 6 years old, for the most part I hadn't
experienced anything extremely foreign. Most of my travel experience
has been to either Alberta or California, with the occasional trip so
somewhere new, like Hawaii, Arizona, British Columbia, and Mexico.
Canada, while retaining an entirely different essence than the US,
has never pushed my comfort zone so far as to feel “foreign.” My
trips to Hawaii and Mexico were so tourist oriented, that the walls
of my resort hotel or cruise ship kept me from really experiencing
the uniqueness of those places. So when I went to Japan, the
sensation of being in a truly foreign land, built up by a lifetime of
dreaming, obsession, and hype, was intense.
The understanding that I was even
going to Japan didn't really
dawned on me until I was on the train traveling from Narita Airport
to Tokyo Station. Looking out the window as we moved through the
relatively uncrowded outskirts of Tokyo it finally hit me that I
wasn't just going to Japan, I was there.
And it was so different.
The trees, roads and houses were crowded together with only loose
whispers of order, making the careful city planning of Colorado
cities seem obsessive-complusive. The roofs of the houses spread out
passed the walls into the pointed corners so characteristic of East
Asian architecture—giving even the cheapest, smallest house a
traditional flair reminiscent of shrines and pagodas and samurai
castles. The signs and billboards we passed were written in a
language that, despite my years of learning it, I could not decipher
in the brief moments they flew by. It was exactly as I had expected
it to look, and yet everything was a surprise. I was bouncing in my
seat, nose pressed against the glass like a child. Turning to my
boyfriend, Justin, who was also studying abroad, I said, “I can't
believe we're here.”
This
excitement was enough, for a while, to counteract the fact that I had
just flown across the Pacific Ocean on a cramped airplane and had
managed very little sleep. It wasn't until we actually got to Tokyo
Station—the biggest and most crowded train station in the
world—that the other, scarier side of being in such a foreign place
began to take its toll. My language courses had not prepped me for
the plunge of being surrounded by people who only spoke Japanese. As
my weariness sunk in, I suddenly could not remember anything I'd
learned, and anybody who talked to me sounded like an alien under
water. Not to mention that speaking Japanese to a native still made
my palms sweat and my heart beat like a percussionist on crack.
Navigating
Tokyo Station, even with the supposed “help” of my boyfriend's
brother who lived in Tokyo, was a nightmare. For a small town girl
who is used to cities of 3000 and can barely handle her university of
30,000, it was terrifying. People in Tokyo Station don't watch where
they're going. They are focused on getting to their destination as
fast as possible and they don't notice anything else—even two dumb
foreigners with two huge suitcases each, standing in everyone's way
looking completely lost. Some guy even intentionally tripped my
luggage. Justin's brother adopted this hurried mindset, too, and
completely forgot (or didn't care to find out) that I had no idea how
to buy train tickets, or get through the check points, or where to
go. When I tried to explain, I was rushed past the check point
anyway, quickly told “It's okay. It's okay.” Luckily no one
checked our tickets on the train we took to get to dinner, because I
definitely did not buy one.
This
was not going as I had hoped. Justin and I had traveled to Japan
shortly after the big earthquake in March 2011. After a month of not
knowing whether we could go at all, we finally got the green light a
mere week before we were supposed to leave. Having to rush all our
preparations in one week, we had no time to really understand what
would happen once we got to Japan. All I knew was that we were going
to eat with Justin's brother in Tokyo before getting on to a bus to
take us north to Akita province. As such, when we got there we were
completely clueless.
After
my illegal train trip we found ourselves in Akihabara, where we were
supposed to eat. In case you don't know, Akihabara is a neighborhood
of Tokyo that specializes in the crazier side of Japan. It's full of
shops that sell everything you could possibly obsess over—anime,
electronics, video games and arcades, maid cafes, porn, candy, toys,
karaoke, alcohol. All of this is advertised with signs of bright,
glaring neon that hover over the densely crowded streets filled with
every kind of person you can imagine. It's a place I've long wanted
to visit, but after the confusion of Tokyo Station, its intensity was
overwhelming. There was too much too look at, it was too bright, too
crowded, I was tired and my feet hurt. Our luggage was heavy and
cumbersome, and dragging it through such a crowded neighborhood was
like trying to maneuver a semi through rush hour L.A. traffic.
When
we finally reached our restaurant—which was supposed
to be sukiyaki (my favorite Japanese dish)--Justin and I were cranky
and exhausted, and more than a little hungry. The meal was certainly
not sukiyaki, and was instead some overpriced assortment of tough
cuts of beef, cooked over a table grill. The portions were
inadequate, and yet they were so expensive I couldn't bear to order
more.
Justin's
brother and his wife were anxious to make the most of our brief time
in Tokyo before we left for school, so we made a pathetic effort to
go a neko cafe, or a
cafe where you enjoy food with cats around. It sounded cute, but when
we got there it was closed. Despite offers to try something else,
Justin and I just wanted to go wait for our bus and sit
down. So we did. With our butts
cooling on a cement ridge around the sidewalk, we waited until our
bus came and left without much ceremony. We would, after all, see
them at the end of our trip.
The
night bus was nice and quiet and dark, and I slept with my head in
Justin's lap, despite my misgivings about public affection in Japan.
(Cuddling and kissing in public in Japan is not as accepted as it is
in the United States). I was tired, and at the moment I couldn't care
less about what people thought of me using my boyfriend as a pillow.
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